The temple complex at Angkor Wat is absolutely enormous, and merits more than one day of exploration if you have the time. There are two main routes that you will hear about from drivers and tourist agencies: the small circuit and the grand circuit. The small circuit is what most travellers do if they only have one day to visit the complex, and I recommend you start with this one – but with some adjustments to avoid the crowds! On your second day you will have the opportunity to revisit any temples you want more time at while completing the grand circuit. There are also some fantastic sites further out from the main complex which are well worth including in your exploration of the area. Make sure to buy the 3-day ticket when you first enter, to save money on the second day. Here’s how to make the most of your time at this incredible UNESCO Wold Heritage site.
Day 1
Everyone heads to Angkor Wat itself for sunrise. It truly is spectacular, and if this is something you’re interested in seeing then make sure to get there reasonably early to secure a good viewing spot across from the ponds at the main entrance. However, once the sun has risen and you’ve taken all your photos from the outside, hop back in the tuk tuk and head to Angkor Thom. All the tour groups will swarm into Angkor Wat, making an exploration of the site at this time feel like a zoo – you’ll never be able to walk faster than a shuffle. It’s hard to leave here without exploring the temple properly, but don’t worry, you’ll be back, and you’ll have a much better experience later in the day!
Angkor Thom translates to Great City, and you will enter this large walled complex through one of five impressive gates carved with smiling faces and intricate figures. The south gate, which you will pass through now, has been restored to its former glory, with hundreds of stone carvings lining the bridge that crosses the moat.
At the centre of Angkor Thom you will find the spectacular temple of Bayon, with its 216 faces. This is one of the big three temples of the small circuit, but you should be able to enjoy it while it is quieter than usual before the tours arrive. The faces are carved onto 54 towers, and you can head up to the roof of the temple to get up close to some of them.
The next visit is Baphuon, a huge temple with steep steps leading up to an incredible view of the area. This site is skipped by many tourists, as the architecture and carvings here are less impressive than the other temples in the complex, but the view from the top is fantastic, and worth the effort if you’ve got the time.
When exiting Baphuon, follow the signs for ‘way of visit’, and you will be led down a path with some interesting and lesser known sites including a 10th century pyramid and the ruins of a small overgrown temple. When you rejoin the road, follow the Terrace of the Elephants to return to your tuk tuk. This terrace was used by the king as a viewing platform during events, and is named for the elephant carvings that run the entire length of the structure. Due to the orientation of the terrace these carvings have been mostly protected from the elements, leaving them very well preserved.
From here you will head towards Ta Phrom, exiting Angkor Thom through the Victory Gate. Ta Phrom is the next major visit of the small circuit, known for being overgrown and covered in strangler figs and tree roots. The temple buildings being consumed by the Cambodian jungle are quite a sight to behold. This site is enormous, and there are many many photo spots, so you’ll want to spend a good amount of time here. Make sure to note which entrance you will meet your tuk tuk driver at once you’re finished, and follow the walkways directing you around the site so that you don’t get too lost!
Finally it’s time to head back to Angkor Wat itself. Enjoy a brief photo stop at the man-made lake of Srah Srang, and perhaps grab a coffee here to reenergise before your visit to Angkor Wat temple. At this time of day you should have the site pretty much to yourself, so enjoy!
The temple was built in the first half of the 12th century by King Suryavarman II and it is estimated that it took 30 years to complete. He meant for the temple to be his eventual mausoleum and dedicated the building to Vishnu. It is still used for religious purposes to this day, so it is not uncommon to see monks here, often offering blessings for a small donation. The complex is enormous, so leave yourselves as much time as possible and enjoy wandering around the complex for the rest of the day. Make sure to climb the steep set of stairs to the temple in the center for the best views of this iconic site.
There are other sites that can be explored as part of the small circuit, but I do recommend skipping some, so that you can focus on the more spectacular sites and not get completely templed out! There are many websites detailing all possible stops, so I would recommend doing some research to pick your favourites, but bear in mind that you’re leaving the main attraction, Angkor Wat, to the end of the day today, and you want to still be fully appreciative of the site when you get there. Your ticket does give you a third day, if you need to revisit anything or want to take this itinerary at a more leisurely pace.
Day 2
My recommendation for your itinerary today would be to head out to the furthest point first, and make your way back towards the main complex. This means heading straight out of the city and avoiding the morning rush towards Angkor Wat, which is the direction everyone doing the small or grand circuit will head in. For a trip out to the further sites I recommend hiring a car today rather than a tuk tuk.
Kbal Spean is not really part of the complex at all, but is a nice change from the large temples and ruins of the previous day. Here you will find a collection of small temples and shrines built along a river. The walk along the banks is a peaceful way to start the day, passing by animals carved into the stones beneath small waterfalls and other unique sights. This is the furthest site at around 40km north of Angkor Thom. You will likely find almost no other tourists here.
The pink sandstone temple of Banteay Srey is around 25km north of the main complex. This large temple has such beautifully elaborate carvings that it is said it must have been built by a woman as no man could’ve produced such fine artistry! Almost every inch of the buildings is covered in decoration, making this one of the highlights of todays tour.
Once you return to the main Angkor Wat complex, you will reach three temples in a line: Preah Khan, Neak Poan, and Ta Som.
Preah Khan has some particularly ornate carvings that are still in very good condition, and the large temple has a surprise around every corner.
Neak Poan is a unique temple situated on a man-made island in the middle of a lake. A walkway across the water provides access to the island, where you can visit the small temple and take a short nature walk around it, with great views of the lake.
Ta Som temple has a similar feel to Ta Prohm from the day before, with the ruins gradually being overtaken by the jungle. This time, however, the temple is almost deserted, giving you great opportunities for photos of the tree covered stonework without other tourists. This small temple makes for a very peaceful and enjoyable visit.
From here you will continue on the grand circuit route, until you reach East Mebon. Originally the temple was situated in the centre of a large reservoir, but the area has been dry for centuries. The temple has some impressive elephant and lion sculptures, but is fairly small and therefore a fairly quick visit.
If you’re not quite done with your day, the last temple to visit is Pre Rup. It has a similar structure to East Mebon, but on a larger scale. Here you can climb to the top of the stairs for a great view over the temple and the jungle beyond. Soak in the views from the top one last time before heading back to the hotel for relaxation time.
