The capital of Georgia, Tbilisi, is a mixture of Western modernity and Central Asian tradition. Over the past few years it has become a popular destination for digital nomads, thanks to its cheap accommodation, friendly locals, delicious food and easy access to home comforts. As a traveller, you can easily explore the culture without facing too much of a language barrier – though the Georgian alphabet baffles most foreigners and makes reading bus signs and menus an interesting experience! The city sits below Mtatsminda Mountain, with many hiking paths, cable cars and a funicular railway leading up the hillside. The top of the mountain provides spectacular views of the city skyline, the river, and the churches scattered atop the hills beyond.
Mother of Georgia
For fantastic city views, head up to the Mother of Georgia statue high up on the hill overlooking Tbilisi. Take the cable car up from Rike Park, and soar over the river on your way to the top. Or, if you’re feeling fit, create a self-guided walking tour up the hill past other Tbilisi sights such as the Zion Cathedral, Great Synagogue and Zoroastrian Temple. From the top, continue to the Botanical Gardens or the Nirakala Fortress.
Tbilisi Cable Car
The Tbilisi cable car is part of the public transport system, meaning all you need to ride is 2.50 GEL (less than $1) on your metro card. Running from Rike Park on one side of the river to Nirikala Fortress atop the hill on the other side, a ride gives great views of the entire city. The best time to ride is at night when the whole of Tbilisi is lit up. The city becomes even more lively at night, with music spilling out of every establishment. Enjoy the cool night air and the illuminated skyline from the top before soaring back down to the city centre to continue your evening. You can purchase a transport card from almost any metro station in town for 2 GEL ($0.75), which is refundable if you return the card before leaving the city.
Mapshalia
This little restaurant seems to be run entirely by little old ladies and is a definite hidden gem. Locals know and love the place, and we never came across another tourist despite eating here 3 times! It’s incredibly cheap, and therefore a perfect place to try all the different local dishes without committing too much time or money if you don’t like them. The ojakhuri (fried pork and potatoes, still sizzling when they arrive at the table) was a personal favourite, but also try the karcho (beef in a walnut soup) or ghomi with cheese (cornmeal dish with a really weird texture!).
Fabrika Tbilisi
This old Soviet sewing factory has been converted into one of the coolest hang-out spots in Tbilisi, with quirky bars, boutique restaurants, a record store, a barber shop and an art studio. At night this place is packed with students, young professionals and travellers, creating an atmosphere that is at the same time lively and relaxed. If you’re looking for fun accommodation in the city, Fabrika Hostel is a top recommendation, and there is also a co-working space here for any digital nomads. Grab a group of friends in the evening and head here for good food and good vibes.
Clock Tower
This unique sculpture was created in 2010 by the architect of the next-door puppet theatre. The quirky clock tower looks like it is made up of different sections haphazardly stacked on top of each other, leaning to one side and propped up by a steel beam. An angel appears from the top of the tower on the hour, every hour to strike the bell, but the best time to visit is noon or 7 pm. At these times, a marionette show in the bottom part of the tower opens up and plays out the circle of life, where boy meets girl, they get married, have children, and eventually pass away.
Leghvtakhevi Waterfall
This small waterfall can be found right in the centre of town if you need to add a little nature to your city break. The pathway consists of several bridges crisscrossing their way across the stream before reaching a small platform close to the waterfall. It’s a nice shaded place to relax for a few minutes, especially if you’ve been walking for a while in the heat. Grab an ice cream from one of the small stalls along the pathway that offer wine ice cream – a bright purple soft-serve concoction which is surprisingly refreshing and very Georgian.
Radio Cafe
This charming cafe sits in a prime location next to Giorgi Leonidze Park, a local favourite green space with sculptures and water features. There is almost always a lady playing the piano in the café’s outdoor seating area, no matter what time you go. It’s not the cheapest food spot, but offers delicious Georgian classics with a twist. Kachapuri is a traditional cheesy bread found at bakeries and restaurants across the country, with each region making it slightly differently. Shmekruli is a dish consisting of chicken pieces in a creamy garlic sauce, with copious amounts of butter. Radio cafe had the so simple but so genius idea of combining the two, and it’s the best thing on the menu!
Tbilisi Funicular
After riding the Tbilisi cable car up the hillside, why not try the funicular? This alternative transport method takes you up to Mtatsminda Park, where a fun theme park including an enormous Ferris wheel can be enjoyed. Halfway up the hill is the Mama Daviti Church, a small but interesting church with a graveyard full of fascinating headstones and statues. Many famous Georgians are buried here, leading the site to be named the Pantheon. It is unclear from the signs at the bottom, but you can exit the funicular at the halfway point to visit the church and return to the track to take the second half of the journey. Alternatively, walking up to the church and buying a ticket for only the second section of the funicular ride is a quarter of the price.
Bazari Orbeliani
Bazari Orbeliani first opened in Tbilisi in 1886 as a farmer’s market, and has recently been restored back to its foodie origins and converted into a food court. The large hall has both local and international food companies, as well as bars and even an ice cream parlour. It is a great space to sit and chill for a while. Head to Shoti for Georgian street food, and Cone Culture for Tbilisi’s favourite ice cream. The food court is located above the largest supermarket in the city, where you can find deli meats and cheese galore, fresh bakery items, and even beer on tap.
Lagidze Water
Traditional Georgian lemonade known locally as Lagidze water is hugely popular in Tbilisi. Cafes have huge glass dispensers containing natural syrups in a range of unique flavours, such as tarragon, quince and rose. Choose your syrup, soda water is then added, and your traditional and refreshing lemonade is good to go! There are a few places in town serving this treat, but the best place to sample it is at the cafe at the Holy Trinity Cathedral, a perfect refreshment break after some sightseeing.
Brown’s Bar
Georgian food is excellent, but if you’re craving a burger or English breakfast, head to Brown’s Bar. The pub is small and friendly, with a lot of regulars who are always happy to see a new face. There are events throughout the week including pub quizzes and poker nights, frequented by a large community of expats. Head over for some evening entertainment, and make the most of all the insider tips that the people here are more than happy to provide!
“Enjoy Georgia’s lively capital, Tbilisi” was originally published on Wanderdash (follow me @rosroundtheworld)