The Svaneti region of Georgia is home to some of the country’s most incredible scenery, from snow-capped mountains peeking through the wispy clouds to meadows full of yellow, purple, red, blue and white wildflowers. This is a hiker’s paradise, and though it is a long a difficult journey to reach this area, it is well worth the trip. The town of Mestia is the gateway to this region, with many day hikes. But the most popular way to fully experience the mountains of Svaneti is to hike the multi-day trip from Mestia to Ushguli, via small villages and beautiful scenery. Ushguli is the true gem of the area, known for being one of the highest villages in Europe, and for having hundreds of remaining Svan Towers, fortifications built over a thousand years ago to protect villagers from invasion.
Old Svan Tower
This region of the country is known for its fortification towers, built between the 9th and 12th centuries for townsfolk to shelter in when enemies attacked. There are hundreds of these towers across the Svaneti region, and in Mestia there are a couple you can climb up. This specific tower is not listed on the map but can be found next to Old House Hotel. It costs about $1 to go inside, and climbing includes one outer staircase and six precarious ladders. Climbing is a bit of an endeavour, but the view from the top is fantastic! At the top of the final ladder, you will find yourself on the roof of the tower, overlooking the town of Mestia, the river gorge, and the mountains beyond. You will also be entirely alone. Don’t skip this hidden gem!
Cafe Laila
This popular cafe next to Seti Park is always busy and for good reason! A must-try here is the dumplings in a pot. Khinkali is a popular Georgian dish of meat, potato, cheese or mushroom stuffed inside a noodle package and boiled to perfection. They are a delicious and traditional snack, but they usually come unaccompanied. At Café Laila, the dumplings in a pot are served in a delicious cream sauce, elevating this dish to the next level. Also try the Ojakhuri (fried pork, potatoes and onions) or the Chakhokhbili (chicken stewed with tomato and fresh herbs). If you have leftovers, feed a little to the adorable dogs who like to sit at your feet as you eat.
Restaurant Posta Mestia
Georgia has some fantastic folk music and with live performances every evening, this restaurant is a great place to experience it. Beautiful voices combined with traditional instruments make for an atmospheric cultural experience. The setting is small and intimate, and the singers’ voices fill the room exquisitely and truly captivate the audience. The restaurant itself is located at the top of the hotel, with a great terrace overlooking the town. They have an extensive wine list and reasonably priced food. Head over after 9 pm to enjoy the incredible Georgian music and friendly atmosphere.
Day 1 Of The Hike: Zhabeshi
If you have the time, I highly recommend hiking from Mestia to Ushguli, rather than visiting as a day trip. The hike takes 4 days, with nights at remote villages along the way, and is without a doubt the best way to experience the stunning mountain scenery of the svaneti region. The first day of the hike will lead you to Zhabeshi. The trek goes through some beautiful meadows and past some great viewpoints. It’s not a particularly difficult hiking day, but it’s best to start early. Particularly early in the season (late May to mid June) it tends to start raining in the afternoon, so make it to Zhabeshi by 1 or 2pm and spend the rest of the day enjoying the charming guesthouses and home cooked meals.
Day 2 Of The Hike: Adishi
Adishi is the most picturesque village on the hike, and the view as you approach town is unbeatable. The houses are a lot closer together than in Zhabeshi, and many of the Svan Towers that this region is known for have been preserved. Almost every building here is a guest house and will provide dinner and breakfast included in the package price. There are also mini markets and a limited bar, if you need to stock up on snacks or celebrate the halfway point of the hike. To reach Adishi, the hike from Zhabeshi will take you up past the cable car, which may be open if you’re hiking in July or August (there is no reliable schedule, so don’t count on it, but this may make for an enjoyable hiking break if open!).
Day 3 Of The Hike: Chkhunderi Pass
Day 3 of the hike is both the most challenging and the most rewarding. Start early, as there is a river crossing 1 hour in which gets more treacherous as the day goes on due to glacier melt. If you have time, there is a short side hike up to the foot of the glacier which is a worthwhile addition to the day. There are usually locals around at the river crossing who will ferry you across on horseback for a small fee. After the river, you will hike up to the Chkhunderi Pass, the highest point of the 4-day hike. The views here are spectacular, and a true highlight of any Georgia itinerary. Be aware that there will still be snow on the ground until mid June, but it is not a technically difficult hike. At the end of day 3 you will reach Iprari. This is the place with the fewest guesthouses, so it may be worth booking ahead. Alternatively, if you have enough time left in your day, pushing on to Ushguli is not too strenuous. Many people in fact choose to taxi this final section, as it is the least interesting part of the hike and stays fairly close to the road.
Day 4 Of The Hike: Queen Tamar Summer Palace
Whether reaching Ushguli on foot or by car, the sights that greet you will make the long journey worth every second. The town is in fact made up of 5 separate villages, nestled into the mountainside, with a gushing stream running between them. The many ancient fortification towers give the region a fairytale quality, and the best place to view this intriguing scenery is from Queen Tamar’s summer palace in Chazhashi village. Queen Tamar, also referred to as King Tamar due to being the first woman to rule Georgia in her own right, was a ruler during the Georgian Golden Age of political and military success. She had both a winter and summer palace in Ushguli, and the town is very proud of its connection to this important historical figure. Originally, 4 defensive towers surrounded a church. Today, only one tower and the ruins of the church remain. These stone buildings sit atop a small hill and provide an excellent view of all 5 villages of Ushguli with their many Svan towers, and the mountains that surround the town.
Cafe Svaneti
Kubdari is a Georgian dish found predominantly in the Svaneti region, and this cafe is by far the best example of it. Kubdari is described as a meat pie, but it is bread rather than pastry – meat is baked into a flat circular loaf. At this charming café, there is a roaring fire to sit by and watch the bread bake on the furnace. The owners here speak little English but are very friendly. If you’re hiking, I highly recommend this being your first stop in town, to warm you up, fill you up, and ensure your first interaction with the people of Ushguli is a great one.
Ushguli Castle
If you have the energy left after the 4-day trek, I highly recommend hiking up to the ancient fortress on the top of the hill overlooking Ushguli. The path is not long but is very steep, so make sure to go slow and steady. The ruins at the top are a perfect picnic spot, providing the best views of the valley and the surrounding mountains.
Shkhara Glacier
8 kilometers from Ushguli is the Shkara glacier. If you arrived into Ushguli by car and missed the glacier near Adishi, this is an excellent day trip option to experience more of the Svaneti region’s most stunning scenery. The hike from town takes around 6 hours round trip and is mostly flat, with just a short climb to reach the bottom of the glacier. Alternatively, you can hire a car to drive as far as the road goes, and hike only the final 1.5km each way. Many places in Ushguli also offer a horse trekking trip to the glacier for a slightly different way to explore the landscape.
Cafe Koshki
Ushguli is often visited as a day trip from Mestia, but an overnight stay here is well worth it. The village is one of the most beautiful in the whole country, and, being so remote and difficult to get to, it deserves as much time as you can give it. Once the day trippers have left, head to Café Koshki, by far the best restaurant in town. There is a pleasant terrace, but since Ushguli is one of the highest-altitude towns in the whole of Europe, it can get pretty chilly in the evenings, so I recommend sitting inside! It’s not too pricey despite being in a tourist town, and the menu includes many Georgian favourites such as Shkmeruli (chicken in a creamy garlic sauce) and Adjarian Khachapuri (bread baked with cheese and a raw egg).
Koruldi Lakes
Mestia has a few day hikes if you don’t have enough time for the full 4 days to Ushguli, or if you simply can’t get enough of the mountain scenery. Maps.me and All Trails are great apps to have downloaded before you head out on a hike, and sometimes both are needed to be clear on where you’re heading! But in general, the trails are clearly marked and easy to follow. Try the 14km hike to the twin lakes, also known as Koruldi Lakes, where you can take a refreshing dip at the halfway point of the trek. For a shorter option, hiking the loop trail to the large hillside cross provides fantastic views of Mestia.
Lile Restaurant
Right next to the main bus stop in town is Lile restaurant, an excellent choice for post-hiking food. The prices are the lowest in town, the menu is big enough to suit every taste, and the meals are delicious. Try the Ostri (spicy beef stew), assorted Phkali (delicious vegetable puree used as a dip or spread) or Lobio (beans cooked in a clay pot). There is often live music here, and frequently very cute puppies wandering between the tables.
“A hiker’s guide to Svaneti, Georgia” was originally published on Wanderdash (follow me @rosroundtheworld)