Bucharest has a long and varied history. In the 1980s, the city saw a radical civil facelift and much of the place has changed rapidly since then. Whole buildings were moved and tens of thousands of families were displaced to make way for some of the largest structures in the world. Today, peering around corners and taking the alleyways could lead to a wonderful discovery missing from even the best guides. So explore and uncover this beautiful city step by step.

Palace of Parliament

The heaviest building in the world and the largest parliament building, the Palace of Parliament in Bucharest is a monstrous 3,100 room construction towering over the Bulevardul Unirii. Walking around the structure can take forever but is worth seeing just to get a concept of its scale. The building is 330,000 square meters. Tours are possible. The price has changed a few times so check before going. And in high season, it may be necessary to book ahead for a time slot. Make sure to do the add-on terrace visit for views from the rooftop of the entire city.

Moving Churches Of Bucharest

While in town, you will hear the name Nicolae Ceausescu over and over again. Back in the 1980s, this leader decided to redesign the entire look of the city and that meant nice wide avenues and huge plazas with impressive government buildings along the sides. As a result, many historic monuments (as well as about 9,000 homes) were lost in order to make way for the huge structures, streets, plazas, and government works that took place during this time. But, some were saved from the destruction. Several churches that had previously been at the centre of public spaces were deemed to be “in the way” of progress. And rather than seeing them destroyed, an effort was made to relocate them. Using Soviet equipment and local engineers, the city relocated several churches to spots away from the government redesign. So when you visit New St John’s Church, you might think it doesn’t quite make sense in the space you find it. There is a reason for that. It didn’t start out there.

Dealul Mitropoliei

Dealul Mitropoliei is a hill just south of Republic Square and across the Bulevarul Unirii. It is sort of a headquarters for Romanian Orthodoxy. There is a really nice green space on the hill worth walking to appreciate all of the impressive architecture along the sides. Quite a few sites make the short hike out here worth the visit. Make sure to hit the Patriarchal Cathedral with some really interesting towers and a floor plan that is totally unusual for churches in the region. Visit the massive library of the Palace of the Chamber of Deputies. Check out the Patriarchal Palace with its paintings outlining a short version of Romanian history. And stop by the Patriarchal Chapel, the bell tower, and of course the mid-day cannon. Unfortunately, the apparatus is gone, but you can visit where the sun clock stood and read about how it worked back in the mid-1800s. Basically, a cannon operated with a sundial timer and some lenses.

Hanu’ Lui Manuc

A beautiful old structure right on the edge of Romania’s Old Town, Hanu’ lui Manuc is a converted caravansary turned restaurant. Just like 200 years ago, you enter the space via the arched wagonway into the courtyard within. Once inside, find a table along the balcony overlooking the courtyard and gardens below. The space seems upmarket, but the prices were quite reasonable. This is a good place to try out some of the more traditional Romanian plates. Ask your server for some guidance and they will be happy to direct you to something delicious.

National Museum of Art

The National Museum of Art in Bucharest is one of the best art museums in Romania. It is set up in the former Royal Palace, now converted into a museum with galleries stretching out in the various ornate wings of the building. The structure and the decorations inside are half the reason to go. The throne room in particular is spectacular. But the collections are also quite interesting. There is a lot of space dedicated to Romanian artwork, both historical and current. There are also exhibits for European masters, ceramics and other media from the East. The museum is closed Monday and Tuesday so check the times before you go. There are many different ticket types depending on what you want to see and do. Check online or they are happy to make suggestions at the door.

Villacrosse And Macca Passages

Pasajul Villacrosse and Pasajul Macca are two intersecting passages that wind through the structures of the old town. These bridge the gap between a couple of roads that are pedestrian-only. Both routes are lined with cafes, bars, tiny restaurants, sandwich shops, and hookah lounges. Escape the heat here in the summer afternoons or come back later to start a night out. Prices are quite reasonable and the offers range from local Romanian to Arabic to Asian, to American to French and back.

I.L. Caragiale National Theatre

This is the new theatre in town. The IL Caragiale National Theatre is a very immense and modern structure right outside of Bucharest’s Old Town. Unfortunately, you cannot visit much of the interior without a ticket to a show. But the space outside the theatre is worth visiting to see the collection of local and international artwork installed in the plazas, gardens, and surrounding walkways.

Romanian Athenaeum

This absolutely beautiful building can be visited outside of showtimes just by walking in the front door. Make sure to check out the frescos as well as the main room for the incredible ornate decorations. The box office should have details about any current shows while you are in town or you can look online. Some travelling performances make the cut, but the Romanian National Philharmonic is at home here in the theatre space. Tickets are quite reasonable.

Catedrala Mantuirii Neamului

The Catedrala Mantuirii Neamului or the People’s Salvation Cathedral is another gigantic construction still underway in Bucharest. This is one of the largest churches in the world and holds several records in its construction. The most fascinating is a claim to hold 18,000 square meters of mosaic decoration inside. Unfortunately, you still can’t see that enormous area of artwork as the space is not yet open to the public. They are a few years behind schedule but are now giving a completion date of 2025. It’s still worth a walk around to appreciate the immensity of the project. The ending height of the structure is supposed to be a full 50 meters above the neighboring Palace of Parliament which is already the heaviest building in the world.

Oțetari Church

Another really fascinating little church in the heart of the city, Otetari Church should make it onto your itinerary. The building is around 250 years old but the site and the name go back farther. The most interesting part is the cupolas atop the towers.

The Church Of The Stavropoleos Monastery

A short visit on your wander through Bucharest, but Stavropoleos is a beautiful find in the winding streets of the old town. The eaves, the columns, the frescoes, and the small enclosed space are quite peaceful.

This article was originally published as “Bucharest, Romania: A changed city” by Creed Evans on Wanderdash (follow Creed @creedevans)