Yerevan is an oasis in the desert. Literally, the place is full of fountains and waterfalls. It has a 2,750 spout fountain to celebrate its 2,750 years of history. It then made a 2,800 spout fountain when it hit 2,800. It also has an art museum and gallery hidden in a 5-level, man-made cascade that flows from Victory Park to Opera Square. A nightly fountain and light show dominates the main plaza of Republic Square. And everything between has this sense of cool and relaxed city life. The hustle and bustle is there, but people seem to appreciate taking their time and enjoying the weather when it is good. So, take your time here, see the sites and visit the museums, but enjoy the food, drink, water, the people, and your time in Yerevan. Nice to know: Safe drinking water is piped onto every block through outdoor drinking fountains, so you can keep hydrated whilst exploring Yerevan.

The Cascades

The Cascades of Armenia are one huge collection of water features in a city full of water features. It’s a 5-level, but at least 10-story, water fountain that flows from level to level. In and around the fountains are art installations that lead the way from the opera house to Victory Park. The Cascades of Armenia are best visited with a bottle of local wine around sunset as this park offers many levels of views of Yerevan’s downtown, old city, and skyline.

Cafesjian Center For The Arts

Hidden below the waters of Cascades Park, Cafesijan is a collection of important national art installations. One large room at each level of the complex houses a massive exhibit designed to reflect the national history and identity of Armenia. Aside from the displays, the center has a series of seven escalators that make the climb up the cascades to Victory Park shaded and easy.

Tsitsernakaberd Armenian Genocide Memorial

Not to be missed and not to be taken lightly, Yerevan’s Genocide Memorial and Museum is a sombre but truly awe-inspiring place. It is dedicated to the often unknown and overlooked genocide of the Armenian people by the Turks over 100 years ago while the country was reforming into the political state it is today. The museum takes you through the timeline of what happened and ends with a comparison to other tragedies of humanity including the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia and of course the Holocaust in Europe. Probably the most upsetting quote in the whole place is a very public speech Hitler made as early as August 1939 to justify his extermination of the Poles “…who, after all, speaks today of the annihilation of the Armenians?”

Mother Armenia

Victory Park sits on the hill above Yerevan’s downtown. The most significant feature of the park is the Mother Armenia statue that towers over the green space as well as the rest of the city. Surrounding the statue, various allusions to the power of the country occupy the space. Missiles, a tank, some personal carriers, a fighter jet, and more surround and defend Mother Armenia. Really, they are little more than picture opportunities or climbing walls for the children. A little west of the main square, an old amusement park is set up complete with the obligatory precarious Ferris wheel, spinning swings, shaky train rides and more.

Matenadaran Museum Of Books

The Matenadaran is a very unique museum. It’s a collection of some of the most fascinating rare books from Armenia, some of the earliest books from across the world written in the Armenian language, as well as some amazing handwritten books with hand-drawn illustrations dating back 1,000 years or more. They have writings in runes, cuneiform, bird calligraphy Armenian, Arabic, and more. I will admit, this is maybe a bit niche for the usual traveller, but if anything I mentioned before draws your attention, pay the Matenadaran a visit. It’s 1,500 drams for foreigners, just under USD$4. Exploring the whole exhibit can take 45 minutes to 2 hours depending on your level of nerdiness for old writing.

Lavash Restaurant

My favourite restaurant in the city, Lavash is part of a group of restaurants all specializing in something just a bit different. Lavash is just nice enough to be top-of-the-line, but cheap enough not to feel uncomfortable. Try to get there early for a seat outside in the courtyard and whatever you do, someone at the table needs to order the ghapama. This is a whole pumpkin hollowed out, stuffed with delicious fillings and then baked together for around 40 minutes. It takes a while but it is worth it!

Tavern Yerevan

Part of the same group that owns Lavash, Yerevan Tavern has a few locations around town. Their menu is similar with a few discrepancies. I suggest sliced sirloin, stuffed grape leaves, or lamb soup to start. Check the location and the day for their music schedule: this is the main reason to attend. Local musicians, with local music, with local costumes will perform right around the tables. Schedule some time though because their breaks are long and getting enough time there is essential.

Anteb Restaurant

Anteb is a fantastic place for low-key, delicious, Western Armenian food. This cuisine spills over and mixes a bit with Turkish, Syrian, and Lebanese dishes but the result is amazing. Often, you will spot some of the chefs sitting in the corner, hand-folding the mante (bread dumplings stuffed with meat) for the soup. I recommend at least a couple of ishli kuyfte, some of the Syrian pizzas, the kashkash kebabs which are spiced wonderfully, and of course, the mante to round it all out.

Yerevan Brandy Company

Definitely the most famous drink in the country, Ararat brandy factory is located just south of Yerevan’s downtown. Ararat mountain, the namesake for the drink, lies just out of town and is visible on any clear day. But as the landmark presently resides in Turkey’s boundaries, google maps will tell you the mountain is Agri Dagi, its Turkish name. Tours of the brandy facility with tastings, are available by appointment starting at 5,000 dram (USD$13). Higher-priced options are available if you want to try the good stuff. Just across the gorge, the second most popular brandy brand “Noy” offers similar tours with tastings starting at a similar rate of 4,500 drams.

Vernissage

Vernissage is the site of the original downtown market of Yerevan. But, as tourism became larger and rent got higher in the city, these stalls turned from selling local sweets and produce to selling handmade crafts designed for visitors. Still a territory of cultural significance, most stalls are selling original products made by hand from various regions around the country.

Garni Pagan Temple

An easy visit east of town, Garni is a village that holds one of the best preserved (although largely restored) pagan temples in the country. The temple sits on the edge of a cliff overlooking Garni Gorge, where some really interesting rock formations appear like church organ tubes in the hillside across.

Geghard Monastery

The Geghard Monastery complex is the “monastery of caves.” It is built over a stream sacred to pagan worshippers from before the country converted 1,700 years ago. There are several beautiful khachkars (stone cross carvings) here, as well as multiple chambers and sanctuaries for the different churches and chapels. Both are carved underground and built out of stone from the mountain.

Etchmiadzin- The First Church

The site of the oldest cathedral in Christendom, Etchmiadzin has formed into an entire complex of Christian churches, monuments, memorials, and educational buildings resembling a college campus. The town itself is about 20 km west of Yerevan and is easily accessed by bus for 300 drams, less than USD$1. Entrance to the complex is free and well worth the visit; however, due to recent renovations (July 2023), the main cathedral can only be appreciated from the outside.

“Culture and cuisine in Yerevan, Armenia” by Creed Evans was first published on Wanderdash (follow Creed @creedevans)