Armenia is a small country but has so much to offer. Being the first Christian country in the world, the area is rich in religious history, with many beautiful monastery complexes to explore. North Armenia is home to the country’s second and third largest cities, Gyumri and Vanadzor, but the real draw of this region is the many hiking opportunities through the stunning landscapes of the Debed Canyon and Dilijan National Park. With short drive times between every destination, Northern Armenia can easily be explored in under a week, but hikers may wish to spend longer to truly enjoy the country’s tracks and trails.
Gyumri
Gyumri is Armenia’s second-largest city and is a world away from modern, bustling Yerevan. Known for its black and orange brick buildings, the town has a darker feel, heightened by the fact that much of the city is slightly dilapidated and overgrown. After a huge earthquake in 1988, the majority of the city was left in ruins, and even 35 years later the effects are still noticeable. Landmarks such as the grand All Saviours Church and opposite it, the Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God have been rebuilt on Vardanants Square and are highlights of a visit to Gyumri. Also walk to the Black Fortress which has been converted into an awesome event space, and the nearby statue of Mother Armenia. Eat at Ponchik Monchik on the main square, famous for its Monchiks (doughnuts) but also offering a huge menu of local and international favourites. Also, try the panrkash (layers of thin bread and cheese in a broth) at Gwoog Gastrohouse or pelmeni (dumplings in a pot) at Gyumri’s Fish Restaurant.
Alaverdi
Alaverdi is a town of two parts, positioned in the Debed Canyon area with half of the town by the main road and river at the bottom of the canyon, and the other half atop the cliffs. There are fairly frequent buses making the zigzaggy trip from the bottom to the top and vice versa, or if you’re feeling athletic you can hike the 400m elevation starting at the Sanahin Bridge. Most restaurants in this small town are fast food places, with limited options beyond kebabs and shwarmas. For a larger menu and a pleasant patio to eat on, head to Mkrtchyan’s Café.
Haghpat Monastery Complex
Haghpat Monastery is the larger of the two UNESCO-listed monasteries in this area of Armenia. It is a popular school and youth group trip, so I recommend avoiding visiting on the weekends (this applies to any monastery in Armenia). The complex includes multiple churches and chapels, so make sure you have enough time to fully explore.
Sanahin
Sanahin is technically a village in its own right but has been almost enveloped by the larger town of Alaverdi. The Monastery here is smaller than Haghpat, even though they were built at the same time. This is perhaps why it has a name which literally means ‘the other one’. Despite this, I found Sanahin perhaps more beautiful, hidden amongst overgrown trees. If you are staying in Alaverdi rather than visiting as a day trip, I highly recommend hiking back to Sanahin from Haghpat. This 8km trail is promoted by Hike Armenia, so it is well-marked and extremely scenic. If you can’t get enough of the canyon views, there is also an optional 3km add-on to the ruined Kayan fortress.
Akhtala Monastery Fortress
Akhtala Monastery often gets missed on day trips to Haghpat and Sanahin but is well worth a visit if you have time. Unsurprisingly it is much less busy than the other two monasteries in the region, meaning you can climb through the ruined buildings and cellars in relative peace.
Odzun
A small and often overlooked town in this region, Odzun should definitely be on your itinerary if you have time. The large church in the centre of the village is made of brick with a slight pink tinge, which seems to almost glow as the sun sets. Inside is the oldest known carving of Mary and Jesus in the world. From Odzun, hiking along the Debed Canyon past the ruins of Horomayri Monastery to end at the Kobayr Monastery Complex was one of the highlights of my entire Armenia trip. The hike follows the Canyon ridge, giving you stunning view after stunning view each time the trail makes a turn.
Vanadzor
If you’re short on time and only have a day to visit the monasteries of the north, I recommend staying in Vanadzor instead of Alaverdi. There are many taxis offering this trip and you are likely to get a round-trip rate that is not that much more than the cost of each individual section by bus, and significantly less hassle. The town itself doesn’t have a ton to do but is much bigger than Alaverdi meaning there are many more hotels and restaurants. You will have to change buses here even if just passing through, so I recommend taking a break to eat at Home Restaurant, where everything is made from fresh ingredients straight from the garden. Restaurant Izagri is another great choice in the town square.
Dilijan National Park
Dilijan National Park is Armenia’s largest protected area, filled with hiking trails and beautiful viewpoints. The area has been referred to as the Switzerland of Armenia, thanks to its mountain scenery, rustic buildings and small-town charm. From multi-day treks to short and scenic excursions, the best way to explore is on foot. In fact, part of the Trans Caucasus Trail which, is still being created and will eventually cover the entirety of Georgia and Armenia, runs through Dilijan. The best section of this is the 5-day hike known as the Little Switzerland trail. This trail covers all of the main sights in the national park, including Hagartsin Monastery and Gosh Village, and Parz Lake is an easy side trip.
Haghartsin Monastery Complex
Haghartsin is one of the most secluded monasteries in Northern Armenia, and also one of the largest. It took three centuries to build, and the result is an imposing architectural wonder set against a backdrop of some of Armenia’s best nature. It’s around 13km from Dilijan town, which is an easy taxi ride or an enjoyable, though difficult, hike. There is also a 1.5km hike to a hidden waterfall which I recommend doing from Haghartsin even if you take the taxi to the monastery. It is secluded and peaceful, and you’ll most likely have the place to yourself.
Lake Parz
One of the main attractions of Dilijan National Park is Parz Lake, a serene area perfect for a picnic. There are row boats available for rent, or you can enjoy the views from the newly built loop trail that circles the lake. It can get very busy in summer, as Dilijan is a favourite amongst locals looking to escape busy Yerevan, so if possible avoid weekend visits. As with all the attractions in this area, the lake can be reached either by taxi or by hiking. The Dilijan to Gosh trail will take about 6 hours and goes right by Parz Lake, making it a perfect halfway rest point on the hike.
Lake Sevan
As a landlocked country, locals flock to Lake Sevan for beach days. As a tourist, you probably aren’t visiting Armenia for beach experiences, but the lake is still worthy of a spot on your itinerary. The best way to explore is by car, either renting your own or joining a day tour from Yerevan. The lake is lined with interesting and beautiful tourist sights, including Sevanavank Monastery perched above the water, Noravank Cemetery with its many khachkar memorials (intricately caved stone crosses), and the ruined fortress of Odzaberd. For food, head to Semoyi Mot Restaurant, a lakeside spot with stunning views of the water. Armenians are very proud of the freshwater fish found in the lake, and Semoyi Mot serves it best. Also stop at Gata Boulangerie at the foot of the stairs leading up to Sevanavank, to try Armenia’s famous sweet pastry treat.
